Paris · Rue Vieille-du-Temple
Fonds 04 — Autumn / Winter 1974 · “Chute”
Forty-one coats that learned to fall.
In September 1974 Ilse Ossiet showed a winter collection cut entirely in the colours of a plane tree letting go — oxblood, vermilion, rust, straw. Every coat was double-faced, so it turned as it moved and showed its paler side. The archive reopens it, one garment at a time.
Fonds 04 · 4 of 41 accessions shown
The house kept the leaves in the pattern book.
OSS.74.017 · Look 17
Overcoat, “Feuille morte”
Double-faced melton, oxblood / dry amber
Cut so the lining shows only when the wearer turns — the house’s first two-faced coat.
OSS.74.022 · Look 22
Cape, “Samare”
Boiled wool, vermilion, raw hem
One seam. Pattern drafted from a sycamore key pressed in the atelier’s order book.
OSS.74.031 · Look 31
Trench, “Coup de vent”
Waxed cotton gabardine, rust
Storm flap weighted with lead shot so it lifts in a gust and settles without a hand.
OSS.74.041 · Look 41
Shawl coat, “Dernière”
Alpaca bouclé, straw
The finale. Shown alone, to the sound of a rake on gravel, and never put into production.